test(home,maps): skip travelling-gated H1/M8 with a stated reason

H1 (home journal feed) and M8 (home journey map source) only apply when
config.site.travelling is true — home.html.twig otherwise renders the
between-trips highlights grid, which has neither. They now detect that mode
(.home-highlights-title) and test.skip() with an explicit reason instead of
failing misleadingly, so they still run and validate whenever travelling is on.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.8 <noreply@anthropic.com>
Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01Mpdu3Dt1iVoozHwAMyjrbn

tests/ui/home/home.spec.js

@@ -3,8 +3,15 @@
 const { test, expect } = require('@playwright/test');
 
 // ── H1: Home page renders inline journal posts ─────────────────────────────────
+// Only meaningful when the site is in "travelling" mode: home.html.twig gates the
+// active-trip feed on `config.site.travelling`. When it's false the home renders
+// the between-trips highlights grid instead (no journal feed), so this test would
+// fail misleadingly. We skip loudly with a reason rather than assert against the
+// wrong view — the test still runs and validates whenever travelling is on.
 test('H1: home page shows at least one inline journal-post block', async ({ page }) => {
     await page.goto('/');
+    const betweenTrips = await page.locator('.home-highlights-title').count();
+    test.skip(betweenTrips > 0, 'home is in between-trips mode (site.travelling:false); H1 requires travelling:true');
     await expect(page.locator('.journal-post').first()).toBeVisible();
     await expect(page.locator('.site-header')).toBeVisible();
 });