docs: cut CLAUDE.md to rules-only (179 → 74 lines)

CLAUDE.md now carries only what must be known *before* opening a file:
hard rules, gotchas, and an entry-point table. Everything descriptive
moved to the doc that lives next to the code.

Moved out:
- stack versions, plugin roles, asset pipeline, nav shape, user/ repo
  tracking rules → docs/reference/architecture.md
- Playwright layout, config facts, auth-setup project, test account
  → docs/reference/testing.md (new)
- folder map, full make command list (build/test/demo/worktree targets
  that only existed in CLAUDE.md) → README.md
- dev/prod Twig settings table → already in docs/guides/deploy-cycle.md

Fixed while verifying, all of them descriptions that had drifted:
- demo fixtures were listed as italy-2026-demo + no-photos-demo; the
  actual folders are italy-2025 + italy-2026-demo
- the map engine was cited at js/src/maplibre-utils.js; it is
  js/maplibre-utils.js, a hand-authored file beside the bundles
- the build-output list omitted fonts/ and the generated
  templates/partials/weather-icons.html.twig, and did not flag that
  js/maplibre-utils.js and js/nav.js are sources living in js/
- README called user/ a "standalone git repo" (it is a submodule)
- docs/README.md linked to a non-existent working/production-todo.md
- git-sync-notes.md pointed at "CLAUDE.md §1", a section number that
  no longer exists

Net: ~17.1k → ~8.5k chars of always-loaded context.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

docs/reference/architecture.md

@@ -66,6 +66,23 @@ Three categories, by how each plugin is installed and maintained:
 
 ---
 
+## Asset pipeline
+
+`make build-assets` runs the theme's `npm run build` (esbuild) in a throwaway `node:20-alpine` container, as the host uid so outputs land in the tracked theme tree owned by you rather than root.
+
+| Source | → Output |
+|---|---|
+| `js/src/main.js` | `js/main.js` + `css-compiled/main.css` + `fonts/` (font files via the `woff2` loader) |
+| `js/src/map.js` | `js/map.js` + `css-compiled/map.css` — bundles `maplibre-gl`, `@mapbox/togeojson`, and `js/maplibre-utils.js` |
+| `js/src/feed-actions.js` | `js/feed-actions.js` |
+| `js/src/trip-publish.js` | `js/trip-publish.js` |
+| `js/src/post-form.js` | `js/post/` (ESM + code splitting) + `css-compiled/post-form.css` |
+| `scripts/gen-weather-icons.js` | `templates/partials/weather-icons.html.twig` (Lucide SVGs inlined into a Twig map) |
+
+**The trap:** `js/` holds both bundles *and* hand-authored sources. `js/maplibre-utils.js` (the `MapUtils` map engine, a plain IIFE imported by `js/src/map.js`) and `js/nav.js` are sources despite sitting beside the minified bundles. `css/style.css` and `css/tokens.css` are hand-authored too — only `css-compiled/` is generated.
+
+---
+
 ## Template hierarchy
 
 All page templates extend `base.html.twig`:
@@ -83,6 +100,8 @@ templates/
 
 The standalone `dailies.html.twig`, `map.html.twig`, `stats.html.twig` and `stories.html.twig` view templates were **removed** in the 2026-07-04 standalone-page cleanup — the trip page (`trip.html.twig`) consolidated the feed, inline map, and inline stats.
 
+Site nav (in `base.html.twig`) is deliberately minimal — **Home + Past Trips only**. It does not link to trip sub-sections, because those standalone views no longer exist.
+
 Partials live in `templates/partials/` (plus macros in `templates/macros/`). Key partials: `base.html.twig` (site shell extended by all page templates), `entry-map.html.twig` (shared map column + `initEntryMap` call, used by trip + home), `trip-feed-col.html.twig` (feed column chrome, shared by trip + home), `home-predeparture.html.twig`, `entry-journal.html.twig` / `entry-story.html.twig` (feed cards), `trip-publish-toggle.html.twig`, and `weather-icons.html.twig`.
 
 ### Shared partial contracts
@@ -205,3 +224,7 @@ Rendered as route polyline on map
 | `user/plugins/api/api.yaml` | `session_enabled: true` for GPX manager auth |
 | `user/themes/intotheeast/css/tokens.css` | Design tokens (colors, fonts, spacing) |
 | `CLAUDE.md` | Project rules and always-loaded context for Claude |
+
+### What the `user/` repo tracks
+
+Only `pages/`, `config/`, `accounts/`, and `themes/` are versioned in the content repo. `plugins/` and `data/` are ignored — **except** the three custom plugins, un-ignored explicitly in `user/.gitignore`. Also ignored: the test accounts, the demo-trip pages, secrets (`config/plugins/git-sync.yaml`, `config/security.yaml`, `api-private.php`), and the whole `env/` override tree. Read `user/.gitignore` for the authoritative list.