docs: reconcile documentation against the code; add a supersession ledger

Five weeks of undocumented evolution left the docs describing a site that
partly no longer exists, with nothing marking which documents were historical.
The code is treated as the source of truth throughout; every claim below was
verified against code, config or the Makefile rather than inferred.

Two mechanisms, following patterns the repo already used:

- docs/reference/superseded-decisions.md (new) — one authoritative table of all
  14 reversals: what was planned, where, what is true now, when, and why. Plus
  a short list of decisions that were NOT reversed, since their planning docs
  are old enough to look suspect.
- Inline "> **Superseded ...**" notes at each stale claim, so a claim can never
  be read un-corrected. This mirrors the existing "> History:" notes in
  architecture.md and "> **Changed 2026-07:**" in trip-switching.md.

Scope split by tense: present-tense docs (CLAUDE.md, reference/, guides/,
README.md, CONCEPTS.md) are corrected; past-tense records (plans/, specs/,
milestones/, summary.md, pm-analysis.md) are annotated only, never rewritten —
their staleness is what makes them records.

Present-tense corrections:

- CLAUDE.md asserted css-compiled/ is generated from css/style.css and
  css/tokens.css. That source relationship does not exist: css/ is hand-authored
  and served directly via assets.addCss in partials/base.html.twig, while
  css-compiled/ is esbuild output from the CSS imports inside js/src/*.js.
  Highest-severity finding — an always-loaded file inviting a hand-edit of a
  generated bundle.
- README.md documented every remote-* target without the -test/-prod suffix
  guard-env requires, so its entire server runbook was unrunnable, and listed
  7 of ~20 targets while CLAUDE.md designates it authoritative for the full
  list. Rewritten with all targets, grouped, and the suffix rule stated.
- README.md told readers to "git clone" into user/, which is a submodule.
- architecture.md: nav is Home + Trips + (authenticated) New Post, not
  "Home + Past Trips only"; template tree omitted trips.html.twig,
  post-form.html.twig and forms/, and placed base.html.twig at templates/ root
  rather than in partials/; entry-actions has three API routes, not just delete;
  added the undocumented css-compiled/maplibre-gl.css output and a section on
  the /post pin editor as the one sanctioned non-entry-map map.
- design-system.md: documented 13 colour tokens against 19 in tokens.css
  (missing --color-error, --color-draft-accent and four glass overlays); claimed
  "all 3 map templates"; and described --color-canvas as "white".
- design-system-light.md documented a light palette in present tense. No light
  mode exists — tokens.css has a single :root block, no prefers-color-scheme or
  data-theme switch, and no light hex appears in css/. Banner added.
- posting.md said photos were optional; they are required, 1-6. It documented
  hero_image, which was removed for entries (stories keep it). It had no mention
  of the frontend edit flow or photo editor, both shipped 2026-07-08. Photo
  files are photo-01..NN, zero-padded.
- working/README.md advertised summary.md as the project's "current state" while
  summary.md describes Leaflet, /tracker, /map and /stats. Most misleading line
  in the tree.
- CLAUDE.md: recorded js/src/location-map.js as the one sanctioned exception to
  the single-map-path rule, and documented that make start/setup fail on a clean
  checkout because docker-compose.yml still builds a travel-memories service
  whose source moved out in a80b0a9.

Also: 2026-07-23-post-form-location-override.md read "Not started" while merged
in user/ as dd19995; status corrected.

Findings that are not documentation problems — the compose breakage, a
repeatable drift check, the unused shortcode-gallery-plusplus, and demo fixtures
for retired views — are collected in
docs/working/2026-07-25-doc-drift-recommendations.md and deliberately not acted
on. Design and verification method: docs/working/specs/2026-07-25-docs-reconciliation-design.md

The submodule gitlink is deliberately not bumped.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

docs/reference/superseded-decisions.md

@@ -0,0 +1,54 @@
+# Superseded decisions
+
+Things this project planned, built, and then deliberately reversed. One row per reversal.
+
+**Why this file exists.** The plans and milestones under `docs/working/` are historical records — they
+say what was decided *then*, and they are correct as records. But a reader who opens
+`milestones/milestone-2.md` finds a confident present-tense description of a Leaflet `/map` page that
+has not existed since 2026-07-04. This file is the changelog of "what did we change our mind about",
+so that question has one answer instead of requiring a re-derivation from the code.
+
+**How to use it.** Each superseded section in the old docs carries a `> **Superseded …**` note
+pointing back here. If you are about to re-create something you found in an old plan, check here
+first — the reversal is usually deliberate, and several are load-bearing rules in
+[`CLAUDE.md`](../../CLAUDE.md).
+
+**Keep it current.** When a decision is reversed, add a row *in the same commit as the reversal*. A
+ledger that lags is worse than no ledger, because it is trusted.
+
+---
+
+## The reversals
+
+| # | Originally planned | Planned in | True now | Changed | Why |
+|---|---|---|---|---|---|
+| R1 | A standalone `/map` page — full-height Leaflet map, marker per entry, popups | `milestones/milestone-2.md` (whole doc); `summary.md` | No `/map` route. The map renders **inline on the trip page** through the single shared `partials/entry-map.html.twig` | 2026-07-04 | `plans/2026-07-04-standalone-page-cleanup.md`. One consolidated trip page beat four thin views; a separate map page meant a second map implementation to keep in sync |
+| R2 | A standalone `/stats` page — days on the road, entries, countries, distance | `milestones/milestone-3.md` (whole doc); `summary.md` | No `/stats` route. Stats render **inline on the trip page** behind a toggle, via `initTripStats()` | 2026-07-04 | Same cleanup. The numbers are trip context, not a destination |
+| R3 | A `/tracker` feed route as the entry list | `milestones/milestone-1.md` §1.6; `milestone-2.md`; `milestone-3.md`; `summary.md` | No `/tracker`. The feed is the **trip page** plus the home active-trip view, sharing `partials/trip-feed-col.html.twig` | Restructured 2026-06-19 (`plans/2026-06-19-trip-entity.md`), fully retired 2026-07-04 | The Trip entity became the organising unit, so a global tracker had nothing to track |
+| R4 | Leaflet.js with OpenStreetMap tiles | `milestone-2.md`; `milestone-4.md`; `summary.md`; `pm-analysis.md` | **MapLibre GL JS**, CartoDB dark-matter basemap. Style URL is single-sourced as `MAP_STYLE` in `js/src/map-style.js` | 2026-06-20 | `plans/2026-06-19-maplibre-migration.md`. Vector tiles, GPU rendering, and a dark basemap that suits the dark theme |
+| R5 | A standalone `/dailies` journal view and `/stories` story view | `plans/2026-06-19-trip-entity.md` era | Both routes retired. `01.dailies/` and `04.stories/` survive as `routable:false` **data containers** whose children the trip page aggregates | 2026-07-04 | Same cleanup. **The folders are load-bearing** — retiring a view must never delete its container (see [`CONCEPTS.md`](../../CONCEPTS.md) → Container) |
+| R6 | Site nav "Journal · Map · Stats" | `summary.md` | **Home · Trips**, plus **New Post** when authenticated (`partials/base.html.twig:27-31`) | Sub-views retired 2026-07-04; "Past Trips" renamed "Trips" 2026-07 (`6cf5092`) | Nav should not link to views that no longer exist |
+| R7 | `hero_image` frontmatter on entries, to pin a feed-card hero | `milestone-1.md` §1.6; `summary.md`; `pm-analysis.md` | **No `hero_image` field on journal entries.** The hero is the first uploaded photo (`entry-journal.html.twig` uses `entry.media.images\|first`). Photo order is owner-controlled, so an explicit filename was redundant. **Stories still use `hero_image`** | 2026-07 | `plans/2026-07-05-photo-editor-media-api.md` gave the owner drag-reorder over photos, which made "first photo" a deliberate choice rather than an accident |
+| R8 | Photos optional on an entry | `milestone-1.md` §1.5; `guides/posting.md` (pre-2026-07-25) | Photos are **required — minimum 1, maximum 6** (`post-form.md:35-46`, enforced in `post-form.js` `initValidation`) | 2026-07 | `plans/2026-07-04-journal-post-form.md`. Photos come first in the form because they anchor what you write |
+| R9 | A light-mode colour palette alongside dark | `reference/design-system-light.md` (whole doc); `plans/2026-06-19-dark-mode.md` | **Dark only.** `css/tokens.css` has a single `:root` block; there is no `prefers-color-scheme` or `data-theme` switch, and no light-palette hex appears in `css/` | 2026-06-20 | Dark mode shipped as *the* theme, not as one of two. The light palette was the pre-dark-mode original and was never re-implemented as a switchable theme |
+| R10 | `shortcode-gallery-plusplus` as the entry photo gallery | `pm-analysis.md` | Galleries are **PhotoSwipe**, wired in `js/src/main.js` against `.pswp-gallery` markup emitted by `partials/entry-journal.html.twig`. No `[gallery]` shortcode is used anywhere in `templates/` or `pages/` | 2026-06-21 (`30c8937`, "replace custom lightbox with PhotoSwipe v5") | A lightbox the theme controls beat a plugin's markup. ⚠️ The plugin is **still listed in `plugins.txt`** with no consumer — see recommendations |
+| R11 | `travel-memories` as an in-repo service on :8082, built from `./services/travel-memories` | `plans/2026-06-21-travel-memories.md`; `specs/2026-06-21-travel-memories-design.md`; `working/2026-06-21-travel-memories-handover.md` | **Extracted to a separate project.** `services/` is gitignored and the source is absent from this repo | `a80b0a9` — "remove travel-memories service from repo (moved to separate project)" | It was an independent Flask app with its own lifecycle. ⚠️ `docker-compose.yml` **still declares the service**, so `make start` fails on a clean checkout — see recommendations |
+| R12 | Three map template variants (`feed-map.html.twig` partial with inline init, plus full-page `map.html.twig`) | pre-2026-06-27 templates | **One display map path** — `MapUtils.initEntryMap()` in `js/maplibre-utils.js`, invoked through `partials/entry-map.html.twig` | Consolidated 2026-06-27, variants deleted 2026-07-04 | `plans/2026-06-27-map-init-consolidation.md`. Three implementations drifted apart |
+| R13 | A single map code path, no exceptions | `CLAUDE.md` (pre-2026-07-25 wording) | One **display** path (R12) **plus one sanctioned editor** — `js/src/location-map.js` for the `/post` pin picker: one draggable marker, no popups/GPX/bounds, `maplibre-gl` lazy-imported. Shares only `MAP_STYLE` with the display path | 2026-07-24 (`dd19995`) | `plans/2026-07-23-post-form-location-override.md`. An editor map has none of a display map's concerns; folding them together would have compromised both |
+| R14 | `post-form.md` carries a static `pageconfig.parent` naming the write target | pre-2026-07 form config | **No `parent` in `post-form.md`.** `cache-on-save` derives it from `site.active_trip` at submit time | 2026-07 | The two settings silently desynced. **Never re-add it** — this is a hard rule in [`CLAUDE.md`](../../CLAUDE.md) |
+
+---
+
+## Decisions that were *not* reversed
+
+Worth stating, because their planning docs are old enough to look suspect:
+
+- **The SKIP list in [`pm-analysis.md`](../working/pm-analysis.md) still holds.** Background GPS
+  tracking, followers, comments, social discovery, reactions, trip reels, 3D flyover, printed books,
+  and AI itinerary building were all deliberately rejected for a solo flat-file blog. That reasoning
+  has not changed — only some of the *BUILD* items' delivery mechanisms did (R1, R2, R4, R7, R10).
+- **Weather via Open-Meteo**, no API key, with the eight allowed `weather_desc` values — still exactly
+  as planned in `milestone-1.md` §1.2, and still matching the blueprint and the post form.
+- **Location badge** (`📍 City, Country`) on cards and entry pages — as planned.
+- **Distance/stats computation from frontmatter and GPX** — the numbers survived; only their
+  *location* moved from a `/stats` page to the trip page (R2).