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+# Dark Mode & Visual Polish Implementation Plan
+
+> **For agentic workers:** REQUIRED SUB-SKILL: Use `superpowers:subagent-driven-development` (recommended) or `superpowers:executing-plans` to implement this plan task-by-task. Steps use checkbox (`- [ ]`) syntax for tracking.
+
+**Goal:** Replace the warm-paper light theme with a warm-dark "notebook at night" aesthetic — dark-only, no toggle, paper grain texture, dark terrain map tiles, typography polish.
+
+**Architecture:** Pure CSS token swap in `tokens.css` (all components update automatically), grain overlay via `body::after` SVG data URI in `style.css`, map tile URL swap in two Twig templates. No new dependencies, no JS changes, no structural changes.
+
+**Tech Stack:** CSS custom properties, inline SVG noise filter, Stadia Maps Alidade Smooth Dark tile CDN, Leaflet.js (already present)
+
+## Global Constraints
+
+- All changes in `user/` — commit with `git -C user`, not main-repo git
+- Dark-only — no `prefers-color-scheme` media query, no light-mode fallback, no toggle
+- Existing token names in `tokens.css` must not change — only values swap
+- No new npm/JS dependencies
+- `make test-ui` must pass after every task (pre-existing P2 FilePond failure is acceptable)
+- Stadia Maps tile URL: `https://tiles.stadiamaps.com/tiles/alidade_smooth_dark/{z}/{x}/{y}{r}.png`
+- Stadia attribution (exact): `© Stadia Maps © OpenMapTiles © OpenStreetMap contributors`
+
+---
+
+### Task 1: Dark color tokens
+
+**Files:**
+- Modify: `user/themes/intotheeast/css/tokens.css`
+
+**Interfaces:**
+- Produces: CSS custom properties consumed by every component in `style.css` and Twig templates
+
+- [ ] **Step 1: Read the current tokens file**
+
+```bash
+cat user/themes/intotheeast/css/tokens.css
+```
+
+Confirm these token names exist before editing: `--color-paper`, `--color-canvas`, `--color-ink`, `--color-ink-2`, `--color-ink-muted`, `--color-border`, `--color-border-soft`, `--color-accent`, `--color-accent-hover`, `--color-accent-light`, `--color-accent-on`.
+
+- [ ] **Step 2: Replace the color block in tokens.css**
+
+Replace the entire `:root` color block (from `--color-paper` through `--color-accent-on`) with:
+
+```css
+ /* ── Dark palette (warm notebook) ──────────────────────────────────────── */
+ --color-paper: #1A1814; /* page background — warm near-black */
+ --color-canvas: #22201B; /* card surfaces, form backgrounds */
+ --color-ink: #EDE8DF; /* primary text — warm cream */
+ --color-ink-2: #B8B0A4; /* body text — muted warm */
+ --color-ink-muted: #7A7268; /* labels, timestamps, captions */
+ --color-border: #2E2B25; /* standard dividers */
+ --color-border-soft: #252219; /* subtle dividers */
+ --color-accent: #2A8C73; /* teal — lightened for dark contrast */
+ --color-accent-hover: #236655; /* hover/pressed teal */
+ --color-accent-light: #1A2E29; /* pale teal tint backgrounds */
+ --color-accent-on: #FFFFFF; /* text on accent surfaces */
+ --color-surface-raised: #2A2720; /* elevated surfaces: tooltips, hover */
+ --color-ink-inverse: #17171A; /* text on accent-coloured buttons */
+```
+
+Keep all non-color tokens (`--text-*`, `--leading-*`, `--space-*`, font variables, etc.) unchanged.
+
+- [ ] **Step 3: Verify no syntax errors**
+
+```bash
+docker exec intotheeast_grav bash -c "cd /var/www/html && php bin/grav clearcache" && curl -s -o /dev/null -w "%{http_code}" http://localhost:8081/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies
+```
+
+Expected: `200`
+
+- [ ] **Step 4: Visual smoke check**
+
+```bash
+curl -s http://localhost:8081/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies | grep -o 'color: var(--color-paper)' | head -3
+```
+
+Not a definitive check — just confirm the page renders. Open a browser and verify the background is dark and text is cream.
+
+- [ ] **Step 5: Run test suite**
+
+```bash
+make test-ui
+```
+
+Expected: 24/25 pass (P2 FilePond is pre-existing failure, all others pass).
+
+- [ ] **Step 6: Commit**
+
+```bash
+git -C user add themes/intotheeast/css/tokens.css
+git -C user commit -m "feat: switch to warm-dark color tokens"
+```
+
+---
+
+### Task 2: Paper grain texture + hardcoded color fixes + typography
+
+**Files:**
+- Modify: `user/themes/intotheeast/css/style.css`
+
+**Interfaces:**
+- Consumes: dark color tokens from Task 1
+
+- [ ] **Step 1: Find all hardcoded color literals in style.css**
+
+```bash
+grep -n '#[0-9a-fA-F]\{3,6\}\|background: white\|background:#fff\|color: #\|background-color: #' user/themes/intotheeast/css/style.css
+```
+
+Make note of every hit — each one is a candidate to replace with a token. Exceptions: the CSS SVG data URI you are about to add (the noise filter hex values are part of the graphic, not UI colors).
+
+- [ ] **Step 2: Add paper grain texture to body**
+
+Find the `body` rule in `style.css`. It will look something like:
+
+```css
+body {
+ background-color: var(--color-paper);
+ color: var(--color-ink);
+ ...
+}
+```
+
+Add a `body::after` rule immediately after the `body` rule:
+
+```css
+body::after {
+ content: '';
+ position: fixed;
+ inset: 0;
+ pointer-events: none;
+ z-index: 9998;
+ opacity: 0.035;
+ background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='200' height='200'%3E%3Cfilter id='noise'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='0.65' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='200' height='200' filter='url(%23noise)' opacity='1'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
+ background-repeat: repeat;
+ background-size: 200px 200px;
+}
+```
+
+- [ ] **Step 3: Fix hardcoded login form colors**
+
+Find this rule (around line 497):
+
+```css
+.login-form .button.secondary { background: #f0f0f0; color: #333; text-decoration: none; line-height: 44px; padding: 0 1rem; }
+```
+
+Replace with:
+
+```css
+.login-form .button.secondary { background: var(--color-canvas); color: var(--color-ink); text-decoration: none; line-height: 44px; padding: 0 1rem; }
+```
+
+- [ ] **Step 4: Fix any other hardcoded colors found in Step 1**
+
+For each hardcoded literal found in Step 1 (excluding the data URI you added):
+- `#fff` / `white` → `var(--color-canvas)` (if a surface) or `var(--color-paper)` (if a page background)
+- `#333` / dark grays → `var(--color-ink)` or `var(--color-ink-2)`
+- `#eee` / light grays → `var(--color-border)` or `var(--color-border-soft)`
+- `#f0f0f0` / near-white → `var(--color-canvas)`
+
+Use judgment: if a hex is inside a gradient or SVG path data, leave it alone.
+
+- [ ] **Step 5: Typography — increase entry body paragraph spacing**
+
+Find:
+
+```css
+.entry-body p { margin-bottom: 1.1em; font-size: var(--text-md); line-height: var(--leading-normal); color: var(--color-ink-2); }
+```
+
+Change `margin-bottom: 1.1em` to `margin-bottom: 1.4em`.
+
+- [ ] **Step 6: Typography — tighten h1/h2 tracking**
+
+Find the `h1` and `h2` rules. Any rule that applies `letter-spacing: -0.01em` to an `h1` or `h2` — change it to `-0.02em`. Do not touch h3/h4/h5/h6.
+
+- [ ] **Step 7: Stats page — tabular numbers**
+
+Find any CSS rule targeting stats numbers (look for `.stat-value`, `.stats-number`, or similar). Add `font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums` to it. If no such specific rule exists, search the template:
+
+```bash
+grep -n 'stat\|number\|count' user/themes/intotheeast/templates/stats.html.twig | head -20
+```
+
+Then add a targeted rule in style.css for whatever class wraps the numeric values.
+
+- [ ] **Step 8: Verify no syntax errors and visual check**
+
+```bash
+docker exec intotheeast_grav bash -c "cd /var/www/html && php bin/grav clearcache" && curl -s -o /dev/null -w "%{http_code}" http://localhost:8081/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies
+```
+
+Expected: `200`. Open browser — grain should be subtly visible on the dark background.
+
+- [ ] **Step 9: Run test suite**
+
+```bash
+make test-ui
+```
+
+Expected: 24/25 (P2 pre-existing).
+
+- [ ] **Step 10: Commit**
+
+```bash
+git -C user add themes/intotheeast/css/style.css
+git -C user commit -m "feat: add paper grain texture, fix hardcoded colors, improve typography"
+```
+
+---
+
+### Task 3: Dark terrain map tiles
+
+**Files:**
+- Modify: `user/themes/intotheeast/templates/map.html.twig`
+- Modify: `user/themes/intotheeast/templates/dailies.html.twig`
+
+**Interfaces:**
+- Consumes: Leaflet.js already loaded in both templates
+- Produces: Stadia Alidade Smooth Dark tiles replacing OpenStreetMap tiles in both map views
+
+- [ ] **Step 1: Read current tile setup in both templates**
+
+```bash
+grep -n "tileLayer\|openstreetmap\|attribution\|stadia" user/themes/intotheeast/templates/map.html.twig user/themes/intotheeast/templates/dailies.html.twig
+```
+
+Confirm the current tile URL pattern (`{s}.tile.openstreetmap.org`) in both files.
+
+- [ ] **Step 2: Replace tile layer in map.html.twig**
+
+Find:
+
+```javascript
+L.tileLayer('https://{s}.tile.openstreetmap.org/{z}/{x}/{y}.png', {
+ attribution: '© OpenStreetMap contributors'
+}).addTo(map);
+```
+
+Replace with:
+
+```javascript
+// TODO: add Stadia API key before launch — free dev use requires no key, production does
+L.tileLayer('https://tiles.stadiamaps.com/tiles/alidade_smooth_dark/{z}/{x}/{y}{r}.png', {
+ maxZoom: 20,
+ attribution: '© Stadia Maps © OpenMapTiles © OpenStreetMap contributors'
+}).addTo(map);
+```
+
+- [ ] **Step 3: Replace tile layer in dailies.html.twig (mini-map)**
+
+Apply the identical tile swap to the mini-map `L.tileLayer` call in `dailies.html.twig`. Find the OpenStreetMap tile URL and replace it with the Stadia dark URL (same as Step 2, same attribution, same TODO comment).
+
+- [ ] **Step 4: Verify tiles load**
+
+```bash
+curl -s -o /dev/null -w "%{http_code}" http://localhost:8081/trips/japan-korea-2026/map
+```
+
+Expected: `200`.
+
+Check the tile URL is in the HTML:
+
+```bash
+curl -s http://localhost:8081/trips/japan-korea-2026/map | grep -o 'stadiamaps'
+```
+
+Expected: `stadiamaps` (appears in the tile URL).
+
+Open the map in a browser and confirm:
+- Dark terrain tiles render (not the default light OSM tiles)
+- GPX polyline is visible in teal on the dark background
+- Entry pins render correctly on top
+- Attribution footer is present
+
+- [ ] **Step 5: Check mini-map on dailies page**
+
+```bash
+curl -s http://localhost:8081/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies | grep -o 'stadiamaps'
+```
+
+Expected: `stadiamaps`.
+
+- [ ] **Step 6: Run test suite**
+
+```bash
+make test-ui
+```
+
+Expected: 24/25 (P2 pre-existing).
+
+- [ ] **Step 7: Commit**
+
+```bash
+git -C user add themes/intotheeast/templates/map.html.twig themes/intotheeast/templates/dailies.html.twig
+git -C user commit -m "feat: switch to Stadia Alidade Smooth Dark map tiles"
+```
+
+---
+
+## Final verification
+
+After all 3 tasks:
+
+1. `make test-config && make test-post && make test-ui` — all pass
+2. Visual check list (browser, not curl):
+ - `/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies` — dark warm background, cream text, grain visible, teal accents
+ - `/trips/japan-korea-2026/map` — dark terrain tiles, teal GPX polyline, entry pins
+ - `/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies/` — dark canvas card, no white boxes
+ - `/post` — form fields readable, no black-on-black inputs
+ - `/trips/japan-korea-2026/stats` — numbers align (tabular-nums)
+3. Final hardcoded-literal check:
+ ```bash
+ grep -n '#[0-9a-fA-F]\{3,6\}' user/themes/intotheeast/css/style.css | grep -v 'data:image'
+ ```
+ All remaining hits should be either intentional (e.g. SVG path data) or documented.