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m038 24acae2a85 feat: restructure pages under trips/japan-korea-2026 entity
- Create trips/japan-korea-2026/{tracker,map,stats,stories} hierarchy
- Move 8 entry folders from 01.tracker into trips/.../01.tracker/
- Add active_trip: japan-korea-2026 to site.yaml
- Whitelist GPX file type in media.yaml
2026-06-19 01:19:41 +02:00

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title, date, template, published, hero_image, lat, lng, location_city, location_country, weather_temp_c, weather_desc
title date template published hero_image lat lng location_city location_country weather_temp_c weather_desc
Seoul Calling 2026-04-01 09:00 entry true 37.5635 126.9851 Seoul South Korea 10 Rain

The flight from Osaka to Seoul takes one hour and forty minutes. Shorter than some commutes I have had. At Incheon I changed SIM cards, changed currency, changed alphabet, and walked out into a grey April morning with rain coming in off the Yellow Sea.

Korea hits differently than Japan. Japan felt deliberate and enclosed, every surface managed, every system timed to the second. Seoul feels faster and more argumentative, as if things are still being decided. The streets around Myeongdong were already busy at 9am: coffee shops the size of ballrooms, street vendors selling hotteok (sweet pancakes) from portable griddles, and the particular energy of a city that moves at one speed regardless of the weather.

My guesthouse is in Mapo-gu, a neighbourhood that turns out to be significantly cooler than anywhere the guidebooks sent me. Independent coffee roasters. Record shops. A gallery in a converted printing house showing black-and-white photography of the Han River in the 1970s.

I spent the afternoon walking the Han River itself — a massive green ribbon running through the city with dedicated cycling paths, outdoor fitness equipment, and Koreans doing every possible outdoor activity despite the rain. A group of older men playing badminton with very serious expressions. Two people kayaking. A family of five sharing a communal barbecue under an umbrella.

Dinner: Korean fried chicken at a place that opened at 5pm and was full by 5:05. Beer so cold it was almost painful. Outside, the rain kept up steadily. I stayed longer than I meant to.