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m038 24acae2a85 feat: restructure pages under trips/japan-korea-2026 entity
- Create trips/japan-korea-2026/{tracker,map,stats,stories} hierarchy
- Move 8 entry folders from 01.tracker into trips/.../01.tracker/
- Add active_trip: japan-korea-2026 to site.yaml
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2026-06-19 01:19:41 +02:00

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title, date, template, published, hero_image, lat, lng, location_city, location_country, weather_temp_c, weather_desc
title date template published hero_image lat lng location_city location_country weather_temp_c weather_desc
A Thousand Torii Gates 2026-03-28 11:30 entry true 34.9671 135.7727 Kyoto Japan 18 Sunny

The Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto takes two hours and twelve minutes. You travel at 285km/h. At one point Fuji appears out the right-hand window, clear and enormous and completely snow-covered, and the entire carriage rotates slightly to look at it. The mountain is visible for about four minutes. Then it is gone.

Kyoto is everything Tokyo is not: low, slow, wooden. The streets around Fushimi Inari were already warm with tourists at 11am but the shrine itself is large enough to absorb them. You walk under a tunnel of orange torii gates — thousands of them, each donated by a business and engraved with the donor's name — up a hillside through cedar forest, and the further you climb the more the crowd thins out.

I walked for two hours. Most visitors turn back at the first lookout. I kept going, past smaller shrines and stone fox statues and mossy steps worn down by a century of feet. Near the top the path was almost empty. The air smelled of pine and incense.

The city below spread out in all directions. Very few tall buildings — there are strict height regulations to preserve the sightlines. The Kamo River was a thin silver line running south. Distant mountains still wearing snow.

Dinner at a kaiseki restaurant in Gion, the old entertainment district. Eight small courses, each plated like a small still life. I ate slowly and said nothing and it was the right approach.