feat(header): mobile hamburger menu + alignment & typography pass

- Header: offset the 4px green ::before bar so content centres in the
  visible dark area, not the geometric box (fixes wordmark/nav/icon
  sitting ~2px high — the root cause behind the whole alignment saga)
- Mobile (≤768px): collapse nav into a slide-down hamburger panel
  (standalone js/nav.js); inline nav retained on desktop
- Nav: use the display serif in sentence case so it shares the
  wordmark's anatomy and aligns naturally (no optical nudge needed)
- Typography tokens: three-tier display tracking (--tracking-display,
  --tracking-display-sm), --tracking-caps, --color-error, paper-glass
  overlays, --text-story/--leading-story; applied across components
- trip-dates: move inline styles to a class

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.8 <noreply@anthropic.com>
Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01BftDn9vu9SonFAY4vxu4uk

themes/intotheeast/css/style.css

@@ -39,7 +39,10 @@ body::after {
     display: flex;
     align-items: center;
     justify-content: space-between;
-    padding: 0 var(--space-5);
+    box-sizing: border-box;
+    /* 4px top offsets the green ::before gradient (top 4px of the bar) so all
+       content centres in the VISIBLE dark area, not the geometric header box. */
+    padding: 4px var(--space-5) 0;
     height: var(--site-header-height);
     background: var(--color-canvas);
     border-bottom: 1px solid var(--color-border);
@@ -63,7 +66,7 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-xl);
     font-weight: 400;
-    letter-spacing: 0.06em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     text-decoration: none;
     color: var(--color-ink);
     line-height: 1;
@@ -76,9 +79,12 @@ body::after {
 }
 
 .site-nav a {
-    font-family: var(--font-ui);
+    /* Nav uses the display serif (not the UI sans) so it shares the wordmark's
-    font-size: var(--text-sm);
+       anatomy: with one typeface, logo and nav centre identically — no optical
-    font-weight: 500;
+       nudge needed. Sentence case keeps it quiet support beneath the wordmark. */
+    font-family: var(--font-display);
+    font-size: var(--text-base);
+    font-weight: 400;
     color: var(--color-ink-2);
     text-decoration: none;
     padding: var(--space-2) var(--space-3);
@@ -90,11 +96,69 @@ body::after {
 }
 
 .site-nav a:hover { color: var(--color-ink); background: var(--color-paper); }
-.site-nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--color-accent); font-weight: 600; }
+.site-nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--color-accent); }
 
-@media (max-width: 380px) {
+/* ── Hamburger toggle ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── */
-    .site-title { font-size: var(--text-md); }
+.nav-toggle {
-    .site-nav a { padding: var(--space-2); font-size: 0.8rem; }
+    display: none;            /* shown only on mobile, via the media query below */
+    flex-direction: column;
+    justify-content: center;
+    gap: 5px;
+    width: 44px;
+    height: 44px;
+    padding: 11px 10px;
+    margin-right: -10px;      /* cancel inner padding so the bars align to the bar edge */
+    background: none;
+    border: 0;
+    cursor: pointer;
+    -webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent;
+}
+.nav-toggle__bar {
+    display: block;
+    width: 100%;
+    height: 2px;
+    border-radius: 2px;
+    background: var(--color-ink-2);
+    transition: transform 0.25s ease, opacity 0.2s ease, background 0.15s;
+}
+.nav-toggle:hover .nav-toggle__bar { background: var(--color-ink); }
+.nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .nav-toggle__bar:nth-child(1) { transform: translateY(7px) rotate(45deg); }
+.nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .nav-toggle__bar:nth-child(2) { opacity: 0; }
+.nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .nav-toggle__bar:nth-child(3) { transform: translateY(-7px) rotate(-45deg); }
+
+@media (max-width: 768px) {
+    .nav-toggle { display: flex; }
+
+    /* Nav collapses into a slide-down panel beneath the header bar. */
+    .site-nav {
+        position: absolute;
+        top: 100%;
+        left: 0;
+        right: 0;
+        flex-direction: column;
+        align-items: stretch;
+        gap: 0;
+        padding: var(--space-2) var(--space-5) var(--space-4);
+        background: var(--color-canvas);
+        border-bottom: 1px solid var(--color-border);
+        box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg);
+        transform: translateY(-8px);
+        opacity: 0;
+        visibility: hidden;
+        transition: opacity 0.2s ease, transform 0.2s ease, visibility 0.2s;
+    }
+    .site-nav[data-open="true"] {
+        transform: translateY(0);
+        opacity: 1;
+        visibility: visible;
+    }
+    .site-nav a {
+        font-size: var(--text-lg);
+        padding: var(--space-3) 0;
+        min-height: 0;
+        border-radius: 0;
+    }
+    .site-nav a:hover { background: none; color: var(--color-ink); }
 }
 
 /* ── Feed ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── */
@@ -142,6 +206,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-xl);
     font-weight: 400;
     line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-3);
     transition: color 0.15s;
@@ -173,6 +238,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-xl);
     font-weight: 400;
     line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-2);
 }
@@ -479,6 +545,8 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-2xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-tight);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-8);
     color: var(--color-ink);
 }
@@ -517,7 +585,7 @@ body::after {
     font-weight: 600;
     color: var(--color-ink-muted);
     text-transform: uppercase;
-    letter-spacing: 0.07em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
 }
 
 .stats-countries {
@@ -534,7 +602,7 @@ body::after {
     color: var(--color-ink);
     text-transform: uppercase;
     font-size: var(--text-xs);
-    letter-spacing: 0.07em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
 }
 
 .stats-note {
@@ -662,6 +730,8 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-6);
     color: var(--color-ink);
 }
@@ -731,13 +801,13 @@ body::after {
 
 /* Inline field validation */
 .post-form-wrap .field-invalid {
-    border-color: #c0392b !important;
+    border-color: var(--color-error) !important;
-    outline-color: #c0392b !important;
+    outline-color: var(--color-error) !important;
 }
 
 .post-form-wrap .field-error {
     display: block;
-    color: #c0392b;
+    color: var(--color-error);
     font-size: var(--text-sm);
     margin-top: var(--space-1);
 }
@@ -775,7 +845,7 @@ body::after {
 }
 
 .form-status--ok  { color: var(--color-accent); }
-.form-status--err { color: #B44A2A; }
+.form-status--err { color: var(--color-error); }
 
 /* ── Accessibility & motion ──────────────────────────────────────────────────── */
 
@@ -863,10 +933,18 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-2xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-tight);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-2);
 }
 
+.trip-dates {
+    font-size: var(--text-sm);
+    color: var(--color-ink-muted);
+    margin: var(--space-1) 0 var(--space-2);
+}
+
 .home-trip-counts {
     font-size: var(--text-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink-muted);
@@ -975,6 +1053,8 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-2xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-tight);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-8);
 }
@@ -1028,6 +1108,8 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-2);
 }
@@ -1069,7 +1151,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-xs);
     font-weight: 600;
     text-transform: uppercase;
-    letter-spacing: 0.08em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
     color: var(--color-ink-muted);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-3);
 }
@@ -1119,7 +1201,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-xs);
     font-weight: 600;
     font-variant: small-caps;
-    letter-spacing: 0.08em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
     color: var(--color-accent);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-2);
 }
@@ -1216,6 +1298,8 @@ body::after {
 .trip-cycling-title {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-lg);
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink);
 }
 
@@ -1245,7 +1329,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-sm);
     font-weight: 500;
     color: rgba(255,255,255,0.85);
-    background: rgba(26,24,20,0.55);
+    background: var(--color-paper-glass-high);
     backdrop-filter: blur(6px);
     -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(6px);
     border: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.12);
@@ -1254,7 +1338,7 @@ body::after {
     text-decoration: none;
     transition: background 0.2s;
 }
-.story-escape:hover { background: rgba(26,24,20,0.8); }
+.story-escape:hover { background: var(--color-paper-glass-hover); }
 
 /* Hero */
 .story-hero { position: relative; }
@@ -1303,7 +1387,7 @@ body::after {
 .story-hero__title {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 6vw, 4.5rem);
-    font-weight: 900;
+    font-weight: 400;
     line-height: 1.08;
     letter-spacing: -0.02em;
     margin-bottom: var(--space-3);
@@ -1354,13 +1438,27 @@ body::after {
 }
 .story-body p {
     font-family: var(--font-ui);
-    font-size: 1.0625rem;
+    font-size: var(--text-story);
-    line-height: 1.85;
+    line-height: var(--leading-story);
     color: var(--color-ink-2);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-6);
 }
-.story-body h2, .story-body h3 {
+.story-body h2 {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
+    font-size: var(--text-xl);
+    font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
+    color: var(--color-ink);
+    margin-top: var(--space-10);
+    margin-bottom: var(--space-4);
+}
+.story-body h3 {
+    font-family: var(--font-display);
+    font-size: var(--text-lg);
+    font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-top: var(--space-10);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-4);
@@ -1404,7 +1502,7 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-ui);
     font-size: var(--text-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink-muted);
-    letter-spacing: 0.06em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
     text-transform: uppercase;
 }
 
@@ -1421,7 +1519,7 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-lg);
     font-weight: 400;
-    letter-spacing: -0.01em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     white-space: nowrap;
     max-width: 40%;
@@ -1505,7 +1603,7 @@ body::after {
     align-items: center;
     gap: var(--space-2);
     padding: var(--space-10) var(--space-12);
-    background: rgba(26,24,20,0.25);
+    background: var(--color-paper-glass-mid);
     backdrop-filter: blur(18px) saturate(1.4);
     -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(18px) saturate(1.4);
     border: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.12);
@@ -1533,8 +1631,9 @@ body::after {
 .chapter-break__title {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 4vw, 2.6rem);
-    font-weight: 700;
+    font-weight: 400;
     line-height: 1.15;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: #fff;
     text-shadow: 0 2px 16px rgba(0,0,0,0.4);
     margin: 0;
@@ -1623,8 +1722,8 @@ body::after {
 }
 .scrolly-step__inner p {
     font-family: var(--font-ui);
-    font-size: 1.05rem;
+    font-size: var(--text-story);
-    line-height: 1.8;
+    line-height: var(--leading-story);
     color: var(--color-ink-2);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-3);
 }
@@ -1671,7 +1770,7 @@ body::after {
     padding: var(--space-10) var(--space-8);
     backdrop-filter: blur(14px) saturate(1.3);
     -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(14px) saturate(1.3);
-    background: rgba(26,24,20,0.08);
+    background: var(--color-paper-glass-low);
     text-align: center;
 }
 .pull-quote__inner--no-image {
@@ -1692,6 +1791,7 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: clamp(1.2rem, 3vw, 1.6rem);
     font-style: italic;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     color: #fff;
     line-height: 1.5;
     margin: var(--space-4) 0;
@@ -1843,6 +1943,8 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-2xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-tight);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: 0;
 }
@@ -1875,7 +1977,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-xs);
     color: var(--color-ink-muted);
     text-transform: uppercase;
-    letter-spacing: 0.06em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-1);
 }
 .story-card__location {
@@ -1889,9 +1991,10 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-lg);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-3);
-    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
 }
 .story-card__cta {
     font-family: var(--font-ui);
@@ -1916,6 +2019,8 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-2xl);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-tight);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     margin-bottom: var(--space-2);
 }
@@ -1973,7 +2078,7 @@ body::after {
     font-size: var(--text-xs);
     font-weight: 600;
     font-variant: small-caps;
-    letter-spacing: 0.08em;
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-caps);
     color: var(--color-accent);
 }
 
@@ -1985,9 +2090,10 @@ body::after {
     font-family: var(--font-display);
     font-size: var(--text-lg);
     font-weight: 400;
+    line-height: var(--leading-snug);
+    letter-spacing: var(--tracking-display-sm);
     color: var(--color-ink);
     text-decoration: none;
-    line-height: 1.3;
 }
 
 .home-highlight-title:hover { color: var(--color-accent); }

themes/intotheeast/css/tokens.css

@@ -13,6 +13,13 @@
     --color-accent-on:      #FFFFFF;   /* text on accent surfaces */
     --color-surface-raised: #2A2720;   /* elevated surfaces: tooltips, hover */
     --color-ink-inverse:    #17171A;   /* text on accent-coloured buttons */
+    --color-error:          #c0392b;   /* validation errors, form error status */
+
+    /* ── Glass overlays (paper colour at opacity, for story components) ── */
+    --color-paper-glass-low:   color-mix(in srgb, var(--color-paper) 8%, transparent);
+    --color-paper-glass-mid:   color-mix(in srgb, var(--color-paper) 25%, transparent);
+    --color-paper-glass-high:  color-mix(in srgb, var(--color-paper) 55%, transparent);
+    --color-paper-glass-hover: color-mix(in srgb, var(--color-paper) 80%, transparent);
 
     /* ── Fonts ───────────────────────────────────────────────── */
     --font-display: 'DM Serif Display', Georgia, serif;
@@ -27,11 +34,18 @@
     --text-xl:    1.75rem;
     --text-2xl:   2.25rem;
     --text-3xl:   3rem;
+    --text-story: 1.0625rem; /* long-form reading size: story body + scrolly steps */
 
     /* ── Leading ─────────────────────────────────────────────── */
     --leading-tight:  1.2;
     --leading-snug:   1.35;
     --leading-normal: 1.65;
+    --leading-story:  1.85; /* relaxed reading rhythm for story long-form */
+
+    /* ── Tracking ────────────────────────────────────────────── */
+    --tracking-caps:     0.07em;   /* uppercase UI labels: dates, badges, sidebar headings */
+    --tracking-display:  -0.015em; /* display headings: text-xl and text-2xl */
+    --tracking-display-sm: -0.01em; /* display headings: text-lg and smaller; site logotype */
 
     /* ── Spacing (4px grid) ──────────────────────────────────── */
     --space-1:  0.25rem;

themes/intotheeast/js/nav.js

@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
+/* Mobile nav: hamburger toggle for the slide-down menu panel.
+   Standalone (not part of the esbuild bundle) — a small progressive
+   enhancement for the header. Loaded via base.html.twig. */
+(function () {
+    var toggle = document.querySelector('.nav-toggle');
+    var nav = document.getElementById('site-nav');
+    if (!toggle || !nav) return;
+
+    function setOpen(open) {
+        toggle.setAttribute('aria-expanded', open ? 'true' : 'false');
+        toggle.setAttribute('aria-label', open ? 'Close menu' : 'Open menu');
+        nav.setAttribute('data-open', open ? 'true' : 'false');
+    }
+
+    toggle.addEventListener('click', function (e) {
+        e.stopPropagation();
+        setOpen(toggle.getAttribute('aria-expanded') !== 'true');
+    });
+
+    /* Tapping a link closes the panel before navigating. */
+    nav.addEventListener('click', function (e) {
+        if (e.target.closest('a')) setOpen(false);
+    });
+
+    /* Close on outside tap or Escape. */
+    document.addEventListener('click', function (e) {
+        if (!nav.contains(e.target) && !toggle.contains(e.target)) setOpen(false);
+    });
+    document.addEventListener('keydown', function (e) {
+        if (e.key === 'Escape') setOpen(false);
+    });
+
+    /* Reset to closed if the viewport grows back to desktop. */
+    window.addEventListener('resize', function () {
+        if (window.innerWidth > 768) setOpen(false);
+    });
+})();

themes/intotheeast/templates/partials/base.html.twig

@@ -8,6 +8,7 @@
     {% do assets.addCss('theme://css/style.css') %}
     {% do assets.addCss('theme://css-compiled/main.css') %}
     {% do assets.addJs('theme://js/main.js', {group: 'bottom'}) %}
+    {% do assets.addJs('theme://js/nav.js', {group: 'bottom'}) %}
     {% block map_assets %}{% endblock %}
     {{ assets.css()|raw }}
     {{ assets.js()|raw }}
@@ -17,7 +18,12 @@
     <header class="site-header">
         <a class="site-title" href="{{ base_url_absolute }}">into the east</a>
         {% block nav %}
-        <nav class="site-nav" aria-label="Main navigation">
+        <button class="nav-toggle" type="button" aria-label="Open menu" aria-controls="site-nav" aria-expanded="false">
+            <span class="nav-toggle__bar"></span>
+            <span class="nav-toggle__bar"></span>
+            <span class="nav-toggle__bar"></span>
+        </button>
+        <nav class="site-nav" id="site-nav" aria-label="Main navigation">
             <a href="{{ base_url_absolute }}"{% if page.template == 'home' %} aria-current="page"{% endif %}>Home</a>
             <a href="{{ base_url_absolute }}/trips"{% if page.template == 'trips' %} aria-current="page"{% endif %}>Past Trips</a>
         </nav>

themes/intotheeast/templates/trip.html.twig

@@ -71,7 +71,7 @@
         <div class="home-trip-header">
             <h1 class="home-trip-name">{{ page.title }}</h1>
             {% if page.header.date_start %}
-            <p class="trip-dates" style="font-size:var(--text-sm);color:var(--color-ink-muted);margin:var(--space-1) 0 var(--space-2);">
+            <p class="trip-dates">
                 {{ page.header.date_start|date('d M Y') }}
                 {% if page.header.date_end %} — {{ page.header.date_end|date('d M Y') }}{% else %} — Ongoing{% endif %}
             </p>