fix(map): collapse attribution on load; darken fullscreen button

Attribution: MapLibre v4 uses <details> and may open it after load
regardless of compact:true — remove the open attribute in the load
handler to guarantee collapsed state.

Button: switch from teal to --color-canvas (#22201B) so it sits quietly
against the dark map; icon reads in --color-ink (warm cream).

Co-Authored-By: Claude Sonnet 4.6 <noreply@anthropic.com>
Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01Vgmzx8VTTTmCskSpQtsLTr

themes/intotheeast/templates/trip.html.twig

@@ -306,6 +306,10 @@ tripMap.on('load', function () {
 
     /* ── GPX tracks + journey segments ─────────────────────────── */
     MapUtils.renderGpxJourney(tripMap, USE_GPX ? GPX_URLS : [], TRIP_ENTRIES, 'gpx', 'trip-journey', { connectMode: AUTOCONNECT });
+
+    // Collapse attribution <details> which MapLibre may open on load
+    var attrib = tripMap.getContainer().querySelector('.maplibregl-ctrl-attrib');
+    if (attrib) attrib.removeAttribute('open');
 });
 setTimeout(function () { tripMap.resize(); }, 100);