chore: switch active trip to italy-2026-demo, remove japan-korea-2026
- active_trip: italy-2026-demo in site.yaml (was japan-korea-2026) - post-form.md parent updated to /trips/italy-2026-demo/dailies - Remove japan-korea-2026 trip pages (no real trip exists) - Remove stale old italy-2026-demo entries/stories/GPX from git tracking (these were leftover from before the demo-source approach) Co-Authored-By: Claude Sonnet 4.6 <noreply@anthropic.com> Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01Vgmzx8VTTTmCskSpQtsLTr
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---
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title: "Rolling through Val d'Orcia"
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template: entry
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date: '2025-09-05 08:00'
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lat: 43.078
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lng: 11.676
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location_city: Pienza
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location_country: Italy
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weather_temp_c: 24
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weather_desc: Sunny
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published: true
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---
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Cypress trees lining dirt roads, heat already rising. The Val d'Orcia is everything they say it is.
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---
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title: "Siena at dusk"
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template: entry
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date: '2025-09-05 19:00'
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lat: 43.318
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lng: 11.335
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location_city: Siena
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location_country: Italy
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weather_temp_c: 21
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weather_desc: Clear
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published: true
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---
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Rolled in just before sunset. The Piazza del Campo was still warm from the day's heat.
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---
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title: "Towers of San Gimignano"
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template: entry
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date: '2025-09-06 12:00'
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lat: 43.546
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lng: 11.321
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location_city: 'San Gimignano'
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location_country: Italy
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weather_temp_c: 26
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weather_desc: Hot and sunny
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published: true
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---
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Ate lunch in the shadow of the medieval towers. Legs tired, gelato mandatory.
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---
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title: "Into Florence"
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template: entry
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date: '2025-09-06 18:00'
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lat: 43.767
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lng: 11.253
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location_city: Florence
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location_country: Italy
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weather_temp_c: 28
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weather_desc: Warm
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published: true
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---
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City traffic after days of gravel roads. Dodged trams and found the hotel.
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---
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title: "Tyrrhenian coast"
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template: entry
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date: '2025-09-08 09:00'
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lat: 43.553
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lng: 10.313
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location_city: Livorno
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location_country: Italy
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weather_temp_c: 23
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weather_desc: Sea breeze
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published: true
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---
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The sea appeared suddenly between two hills. Eight days of riding ends here.
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---
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title: The Val d'Orcia at Dawn
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date: '2025-09-05'
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location_name: Val d'Orcia
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location_country: Italy
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lat: 43.078
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lng: 11.676
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hero_image: hero.jpg
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hero_alt: Cypress-lined dirt road at first light, Tuscany
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published: true
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---
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We left camp before the heat arrived. At six in the morning the Val d'Orcia belongs entirely to the light — long shadows, pale gold, not a car on the white roads. The kind of silence that has texture.
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[snap-gallery images="hero.jpg,photo.jpg" captions="First light on the valley floor,The hills fold endlessly east" alts="Wide valley at dawn with golden light,Rolling green hills under morning sky" /]
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We stopped twice before nine. Once for a puncture, once because the view demanded it.
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[chapter-break image="hero.jpg" title="The Hour Before Heat" alt="Hazy hillside shimmering in early morning warmth" /]
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By ten the temperature had shifted. The colours changed too — softer, more diffuse, the sky turning white at the edges. We dropped into the lower valley and the road surface changed from gravel to packed earth, then back again.
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[snap-gallery images="photo.jpg,hero.jpg" captions="The texture of Tuscan gravel — coarser than it looks,The road ahead disappears into the heat" alts="Close-up of pale gravel surface,Road vanishing into bright haze" /]
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[pull-quote]
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The best hours of a cycling day are the ones nobody sees. Four in the morning to ten. Then it belongs to the sun.
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[/pull-quote]
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We made Pienza by noon. It was already thirty degrees and the ice cream queue was six deep.
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---
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title: The Long Climb to Montalcino
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date: '2025-09-06'
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location_name: Montalcino
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location_country: Italy
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lat: 43.058
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lng: 11.489
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hero_image: hero.jpg
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hero_alt: Hairpin road climbing through olive groves towards a hilltop town
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published: true
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---
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The profile showed fourteen kilometres at an average of six percent. In practice it was steeper at the bottom and gentler at the top, which is the worst possible arrangement. We started climbing at two in the afternoon, which was also the worst possible decision.
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[scrolly-section image="hero.jpg" alt="Empty road rising steeply through olive groves" caption="SP55 — 14km, 840m elevation gain"]
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The first kilometre is the most honest. You find out immediately whether your legs have anything to say.
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---
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By the halfway point the olive groves had given way to scrub oak and the road had narrowed to a single lane. No cars had passed in forty minutes. The silence was absolute except for breathing.
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---
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Then, at the last bend before the top, the town appeared. Just the outline of it — a tower, a wall, rooftops. It was enough.
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[/scrolly-section]
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[chapter-break image="photo.jpg" title="Montalcino" number="II" alt="Medieval town gate with stone archway" /]
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[pull-quote image="photo.jpg" alt="Rows of Brunello vines descending from hilltop town"]
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From the top you could see the whole valley we had spent two days riding through. It looked completely flat from up here.
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[/pull-quote]
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We found a bar in the main piazza. The owner brought two glasses of water without being asked. Then two more. Then a small plate of bread and oil that nobody ordered. We sat there for an hour.
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[scrolly-section image="photo.jpg" alt="Shaded medieval piazza with stone buildings" caption="Piazza del Popolo, Montalcino"]
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The piazza at five in the afternoon is a different place from the piazza at noon. People have returned from wherever they go during the heat.
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---
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A wine shop with barrels in the window and a handwritten list on a chalkboard. We looked at it for a long time and bought nothing. The prices were very reasonable and this felt suspicious.
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---
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A cat on a warm stone wall, watching traffic that did not exist. It had clearly been watching this traffic for years.
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---
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The fortress walls turn amber just before sunset. You could photograph this from a hundred different angles and it would look the same in all of them: very good.
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---
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The descent back to the valley takes twenty minutes. The climb took two and a half hours. This ratio never stops feeling wrong.
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[/scrolly-section]
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We found the agriturismo by following a handwritten sign nailed to a cypress tree. It was exactly what it promised to be.
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---
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title: One Evening in Siena
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date: '2025-09-05'
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title: 'One Evening in Siena'
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date: '2026-09-05'
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location_name: Siena
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location_country: Italy
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lat: 43.318
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lng: 11.330
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hero_image: hero.jpg
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hero_alt: The Piazza del Campo at dusk, terracotta rooftops fading to blue
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hero_alt: Piazza del Campo at dusk, terracotta paving fading from gold to shadow
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published: true
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---
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[pull-quote]
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Siena is not a city that tries to impress you. It has been here for a thousand years and intends to be here for a thousand more. You fit around it.
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[pull-quote image="hero.jpg" alt="Piazza del Campo seen from the upper rim at golden hour"]
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Siena is not a city that tries to impress you. It has been here for a thousand years and intends to be here for a thousand more. You fit around it, not the other way.
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[/pull-quote]
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We rolled in at half past six, legs finished, panniers heavier than they started. The Campo appeared without warning at the end of a narrow street and we both stopped pedalling at exactly the same moment.
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We rolled in at half past six, legs finished, panniers heavier than they started. The Campo appeared without warning at the end of a narrow street and we both stopped pedalling at exactly the same moment. That particular square does something to people. It is partly the shape — a shallow bowl, a scallop shell, the way it holds you — and partly the light at that hour, which turns the terracotta pavement the colour of old copper.
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[scrolly-section image="hero.jpg" alt="Piazza del Campo seen from the upper rim, sloping shell-shaped square"]
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The square fills from the edges inward as evening comes. First the locals — people who have been here before and know which bench faces west. Then the tourists, then the pigeons, then the shadows.
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[chapter-break image="photo-1.jpg" title="The Campo" number="I" alt="Detail of Siena's herringbone brick pavement catching the last light" /]
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[scrolly-section image="hero.jpg" alt="Piazza del Campo filling with people as evening comes" caption="Campo, 19:00 — the square fills from the edges inward"]
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The locals arrive first. They know which spot faces west and which benches stay in the shade longest. Then the tourists, then the pigeons, then the long shadows.
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---
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A busker with a cello at the top of the slope. A couple arguing quietly in a language I couldn't place. Three children running in a circle for reasons nobody questioned. The ordinary business of a city at the end of a summer day.
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A busker with an accordion near the Fonte Gaia. A group of students lying on the slope reading. Three children running in a circle for reasons nobody questioned.
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---
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We sat on the pavement with our backs against the warm brickwork of the Palazzo Pubblico and did not move for forty minutes. The relief of sitting still after eight hours on a bike is a specific physical sensation. It travels upward from your legs and settles somewhere just behind the sternum.
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[/scrolly-section]
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[snap-gallery images="hero.jpg,photo.jpg" captions="The Campo at the moment the light goes warm,A doorway on Via di Città — every doorway in Siena looks like this" alts="Wide shot of Campo at golden hour,Ornate stone doorway with iron lantern" /]
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We found a place to eat down three flights of stairs in a basement that appeared to have no ventilation and no menu. It was perfect. The relief of sitting down after eight hours on a bike is a specific physical sensation that is difficult to describe to anyone who has not experienced it.
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[pull-quote image="photo.jpg" alt="Sunset view over Siena rooftops from high vantage point"]
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Cycling makes you earn every place you arrive at. Siena earned.
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[/pull-quote]
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We found a place for dinner three streets away, down a flight of steps with no sign outside. The pasta was handmade, the wine was local, the bill was reasonable. We were in bed by ten. Tomorrow: Florence.
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---
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title: 'Italy 2026 (Demo)'
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title: 'Tuscany 2026'
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template: trip
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date: '2026-09-01'
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date_start: '2026-09-01'
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---
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title: 'The Journey Begins'
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date: '2026-06-17 10:00'
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template: entry
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published: true
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hero_image: ''
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lat: '52.3676'
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lng: '4.9041'
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location_city: 'Amsterdam'
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location_country: 'Netherlands'
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weather_temp_c: 19
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weather_desc: 'Partly cloudy'
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---
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First entry. Bags are packed, passport is ready, the adventure starts here.
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This is a test entry to confirm the site is working correctly before departure.
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---
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title: 'The Journey'
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template: dailies
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content:
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items: '@self.children'
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order:
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by: date
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dir: desc
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filter:
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published: true
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---
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---
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title: 'Trip Map'
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template: map
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---
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---
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title: 'Trip Stats'
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template: stats
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---
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---
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title: Stories
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template: stories
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published: true
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---
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---
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title: 'Japan & Korea 2026'
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template: trip
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date: '2026-06-17'
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date_start: '2026-06-17'
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date_end: ''
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cover_image: ''
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content:
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items: '@self.children'
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---
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@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ access:
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# Keep in sync with active_trip in user/config/site.yaml
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pageconfig:
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parent: '/trips/japan-korea-2026/dailies'
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parent: '/trips/italy-2026-demo/dailies'
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slug_field: 'date,title'
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overwrite_mode: false
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