feat(photos): blurred ambient fill, dots overlay, PhotoSwipe on trip + dailies

- object-fit: contain + ::before blurred background fill on all slides
- dots moved inside photo-wrap, overlaid at bottom with shadow for contrast
- arrows hidden on touch devices via @media (hover: none)
- margin-bottom increased for breathing room below photo block
- trip.html.twig brought up to parity with dailies: same structure,
  same PhotoSwipe init, same expand button, same dot overlay

Co-Authored-By: Claude Sonnet 4.6 <noreply@anthropic.com>
Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01Vgmzx8VTTTmCskSpQtsLTr

themes/intotheeast/css/style.css

@@ -204,7 +204,7 @@ body::after {
 
 .journal-photo-wrap {
     position: relative;
-    margin-bottom: var(--space-3);
+    margin-bottom: var(--space-5);
     border-radius: var(--radius-md);
     overflow: hidden;
 }
@@ -225,12 +225,27 @@ body::after {
     overflow: hidden;
     display: block;
     text-decoration: none;
+    position: relative;
+}
+
+.journal-photo-slide::before {
+    content: '';
+    position: absolute;
+    inset: 0;
+    background-image: var(--thumb);
+    background-size: cover;
+    background-position: center;
+    filter: blur(24px) brightness(0.75);
+    transform: scale(1.15);
+    z-index: 0;
 }
 
 .journal-photo-slide img {
+    position: relative;
+    z-index: 1;
     width: 100%;
     height: 100%;
-    object-fit: cover;
+    object-fit: contain;
     display: block;
 }
 
@@ -251,27 +266,32 @@ body::after {
     padding: 0;
     z-index: 2;
     -webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent;
+    transform: translateZ(0);
 }
 
 .journal-photo-expand:active { background: rgba(0,0,0,0.7); }
 
 .journal-photo-dots {
+    position: absolute;
+    bottom: var(--space-3);
+    left: 50%;
+    transform: translateX(-50%);
     display: flex;
-    justify-content: center;
     gap: var(--space-2);
-    margin-bottom: var(--space-4);
+    z-index: 2;
 }
 
 .journal-photo-dot {
     width: 6px;
     height: 6px;
     border-radius: 9999px;
-    background: var(--color-border);
+    background: rgba(255,255,255,0.5);
+    box-shadow: 0 0 0 1px rgba(0,0,0,0.2), 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.4);
     transition: background 0.2s;
 }
 
 .journal-photo-dot.is-active {
-    background: var(--color-ink-muted);
+    background: #fff;
 }
 
 .strip-controls {
@@ -282,6 +302,10 @@ body::after {
     margin-bottom: var(--space-4);
 }
 
+@media (hover: none) {
+    .strip-controls { display: none; }
+}
+
 .strip-prev,
 .strip-next {
     background: transparent;