fix: story back button uses history.back(); add demo images; fix story dates for chronological interleaving
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---
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title: The Val d'Orcia at Dawn
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date: 2025-09-05
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date: '2025-09-05 10:00'
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location_name: Val d'Orcia
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location_country: Italy
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lat: 43.078
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@@ -11,15 +11,15 @@ published: true
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---
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We left camp before the heat arrived. At six in the morning the Val d'Orcia belongs entirely to the light — long shadows, pale gold, not a car on the white roads. The kind of silence that has texture.
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[snap-gallery images="dawn-wide.jpg,rolling-hills.jpg,cypress-allee.jpg,dirt-road.jpg" captions="First light on the valley floor,The hills fold endlessly east,The cypress road — every photo you have ever seen of Tuscany,Dust rising behind us on the gravel" alts="Wide valley at dawn with golden light,Rolling green hills under morning sky,Long avenue of cypress trees,White gravel road with dust cloud" /]
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[snap-gallery images="hero.jpg,photo.jpg" captions="First light on the valley floor,The hills fold endlessly east" alts="Wide valley at dawn with golden light,Rolling green hills under morning sky" /]
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We stopped twice before nine. Once for a puncture, once because the view demanded it.
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[chapter-break image="heat-haze.jpg" title="The Hour Before Heat" alt="Hazy hillside shimmering in early morning warmth" /]
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[chapter-break image="hero.jpg" title="The Hour Before Heat" alt="Hazy hillside shimmering in early morning warmth" /]
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By ten the temperature had shifted. The colours changed too — softer, more diffuse, the sky turning white at the edges. We dropped into the lower valley and the road surface changed from gravel to packed earth, then back again.
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[snap-gallery images="gravel-detail.jpg,wheel-shadow.jpg,water-bottle.jpg,road-shadow.jpg" captions="The texture of Tuscan gravel — coarser than it looks,Long shadow at the day's first steep pitch,Half a litre left and forty kilometres to go,The road ahead disappears into the heat" alts="Close-up of pale gravel surface,Bicycle wheel casting shadow on road,Half-empty water bottle in cage,Road vanishing into bright haze" /]
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[snap-gallery images="photo.jpg,hero.jpg" captions="The texture of Tuscan gravel — coarser than it looks,The road ahead disappears into the heat" alts="Close-up of pale gravel surface,Road vanishing into bright haze" /]
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[pull-quote]
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The best hours of a cycling day are the ones nobody sees. Four in the morning to ten. Then it belongs to the sun.
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---
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title: The Long Climb to Montalcino
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date: 2025-09-05
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date: '2025-09-06 20:00'
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end_date: 2025-09-06
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location_name: Montalcino
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location_country: Italy
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@@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ published: true
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---
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The profile showed fourteen kilometres at an average of six percent. In practice it was steeper at the bottom and gentler at the top, which is the worst possible arrangement. We started climbing at two in the afternoon, which was also the worst possible decision.
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[scrolly-section image="climb-road.jpg" alt="Empty road rising steeply through olive groves" caption="SP55 — 14km, 840m elevation gain"]
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[scrolly-section image="hero.jpg" alt="Empty road rising steeply through olive groves" caption="SP55 — 14km, 840m elevation gain"]
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The first kilometre is the most honest. You find out immediately whether your legs have anything to say.
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---
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@@ -24,15 +24,15 @@ By the halfway point the olive groves had given way to scrub oak and the road ha
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Then, at the last bend before the top, the town appeared. Just the outline of it — a tower, a wall, rooftops. It was enough.
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[/scrolly-section]
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[chapter-break image="town-gate.jpg" title="Montalcino" number="II" alt="Medieval town gate with stone archway" /]
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[chapter-break image="photo.jpg" title="Montalcino" number="II" alt="Medieval town gate with stone archway" /]
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[pull-quote image="vineyard.jpg" alt="Rows of Brunello vines descending from hilltop town"]
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[pull-quote image="photo.jpg" alt="Rows of Brunello vines descending from hilltop town"]
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From the top you could see the whole valley we had spent two days riding through. It looked completely flat from up here.
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[/pull-quote]
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We found a bar in the main piazza. The owner brought two glasses of water without being asked. Then two more. Then a small plate of bread and oil that nobody ordered. We sat there for an hour.
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[scrolly-section image="piazza.jpg" alt="Shaded medieval piazza with stone buildings" caption="Piazza del Popolo, Montalcino"]
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[scrolly-section image="photo.jpg" alt="Shaded medieval piazza with stone buildings" caption="Piazza del Popolo, Montalcino"]
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The piazza at five in the afternoon is a different place from the piazza at noon. People have returned from wherever they go during the heat.
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---
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---
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title: One Evening in Siena
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date: 2025-09-05
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date: '2025-09-05 22:00'
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location_name: Siena
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location_country: Italy
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lat: 43.318
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@@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ Siena is not a city that tries to impress you. It has been here for a thousand y
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We rolled in at half past six, legs finished, panniers heavier than they started. The Campo appeared without warning at the end of a narrow street and we both stopped pedalling at exactly the same moment.
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[scrolly-section image="campo.jpg" alt="Piazza del Campo seen from the upper rim, sloping shell-shaped square"]
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[scrolly-section image="hero.jpg" alt="Piazza del Campo seen from the upper rim, sloping shell-shaped square"]
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The square fills from the edges inward as evening comes. First the locals — people who have been here before and know which bench faces west. Then the tourists, then the pigeons, then the shadows.
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---
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@@ -23,10 +23,10 @@ The square fills from the edges inward as evening comes. First the locals — pe
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A busker with a cello at the top of the slope. A couple arguing quietly in a language I couldn't place. Three children running in a circle for reasons nobody questioned. The ordinary business of a city at the end of a summer day.
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[/scrolly-section]
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[snap-gallery images="campo-dusk.jpg,doorway.jpg,gelato.jpg" captions="The Campo at the moment the light goes warm,A doorway on Via di Città — every doorway in Siena looks like this,The mandatory stop: stracciatella, obviously" alts="Wide shot of Campo at golden hour,Ornate stone doorway with iron lantern,Close-up of gelato cone with city behind" /]
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[snap-gallery images="hero.jpg,photo.jpg" captions="The Campo at the moment the light goes warm,A doorway on Via di Città — every doorway in Siena looks like this" alts="Wide shot of Campo at golden hour,Ornate stone doorway with iron lantern" /]
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We found a place to eat down three flights of stairs in a basement that appeared to have no ventilation and no menu. It was perfect. The relief of sitting down after eight hours on a bike is a specific physical sensation that is difficult to describe to anyone who has not experienced it.
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[pull-quote image="sunset.jpg" alt="Sunset view over Siena rooftops from high vantage point"]
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[pull-quote image="photo.jpg" alt="Sunset view over Siena rooftops from high vantage point"]
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Cycling makes you earn every place you arrive at. Siena earned.
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[/pull-quote]
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